Showing posts with label Gerhard Bock. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gerhard Bock. Show all posts

Friday, August 24, 2012

Off the Beaten Track: Architectural Jewels of Chimayó, Taos, and Abiquiú


Our guest this week is Gerhard Bock, a translator, photographer, and avid gardener based in Northern California. He is also an occasional contributor to Novel Adventurers. This new travelogue describes one day of Gerhard’s recent road trip through the American Southwest with his family. It originally appeared on his gardening blog, Bambutopia.


Today was all about visiting historic churches and buildings in northern New Mexico. In the morning we took the High Road toTaos which crosses the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and winds through a number of small Spanish villages.

Our first stop was in Chimayó whose main attraction is the Santuario, a Catholic church often called the “Lourdes of America” because it attracts scores of faithful who believe in its healing properties. Check out this Wikipedia article for the whole (hi)story.

Santuario de Chimayó
Shrine in the square at the base of the Santuario de Chimayó
Wall detail of Santuario de Chimayó
At the top of a mesa is the even smaller village of Truchas. Its church, Nuestra Señora del Rosario, is very modest but beautiful in its lack of ornamentation. Robert Redford’s 1988 movie The Milagro Beanfield War was filmed in Truchas.

View from Truchas
Nuestra Señora del Rosario in Truchas
Las Trampas comes on the High Road. Its church, San José deGracia, was built between 1760 and 1776 and is a prime example of adobe architecture. Unfortunately, the church was closed (as was the one in Truchas) but I enjoyed looking at the exterior details, especially the exquisite door.

San José de Gracias in Las Trampas
Door of San José de Gracia
Adobe wall detail
After another 30 miles we finally reached Ranchos de Taos, home of the most famous church in the southwestern United Stages. The SanFrancisco de Asís Mission Church is breathtaking. It has been photographed and painted by master artists ranging from Ansel Adams and Paul Strand to Georgia O’Keeffe, who lived an hour and a half away in the village of Abiquiú (see further down below in this post).

We parked in the dirt lot right off the main highway so the first thing we saw of the church was its back. As beautiful as the front is, I think the back is my favorite aspect because of the unbroken expanses of adobe and the simple geometric lines.

San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--rear
San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--rear


San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--architectural details
Walking around the side, I finally made it to the front of the church. After checking out the inside (no photography allowed), we had a great lunch at a family-owned restaurant right next to the church. The New Mexican food they served was among the best we’ve had to date on this trip.

San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--front
San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--front
Our next stop was the Taos Plaza in the heart of town. It’s much smaller than the Santa Fe Plaza we saw yesterday, but it was also much less busy.

Taos Plaza
Taos Plaza
Taos Plaza
Ristras (chili pepper wreaths) and kiva ladder on top
of a building in the Taos Plaza
One of the most anticipated stops on this entire trip came next: Taos Pueblo. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is the oldest continuously inhabited place in the entire country. Some of the multi-storied adobe structures date back to the year 1000.

Here are some photographic impressions of Taos Pueblo:
  
Church of San Geronimo
Church of San Geronimo
Multi-storied adobe building
Multi-storied adobe buildings
Wahlea's Taos Pueblo Gallery
Ladder against an adobe wall
Panoramic view of Taos Pueblo
The final stop on today’s itinerary was the village of Abiquiú, about an hour and a half from Taos and less than thirty minutes from Española where we’ve been staying for the last three days. Abiquiú is where American painter Georgia O’Keeffe lived from 1949 until her death at age 98 in 1986. I expected it to have at least some tourism, but the small plaza in front of the beautiful church of Santo Tomás El Apóstol looks much like it probably did 100 years ago. The road and plaza are unpaved, and the houses—some adobe, some more conventional—look forgotten by time. The plaza was quiet and deserted, quite a contrast from Santa Fe and Taos.

Architectural detail
I knew Georgia O’Keeffe’s house adjoined the plaza but I had a hard time finding it; it’s by far the largest property but it’s well hidden by trees and completely surrounded by a thick six-foot adobe wall. The best view I could get was from the entrance, which was chained off. Tours can be arranged through the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum but they require advance reservations and are expensive ($35 per person).

Georgia O'Keeffe House in Abiquiú
On our way back to Española, we saw a double rainbow with really vibrant colors. Within minutes we were in the middle of a summer monsoon squall, complete with lightning and thunder. I loved it.

Double rainbow near Abiquiú

Friday, December 10, 2010

Off the Beaten Track: A Cruise into Tasmania's Western Wilderness

Photographer Gerhard Bock is back this week with more beautiful photos and a travelogue about his recent trip to Australia. To learn more about Gerhard and read his advice on taking better photos, check out his post from last week: Off the Beaten Track: Travel Photography 101. Gerhard’s photos and writing can also be found at The Photo Continuum, and http://bambutopia.blogspot.com/.

For many people, Tasmania is in the same category as Timbuktu: They don't really know where it is, but just the name conjures up visions of a place far away, near the end of the world. Well, they're right. Tasmania is at the very edge of the world.

That point is brought home by a comment the captain of our tour boat makes as we approach the mouth of Macquarie Harbour, a large inlet on the west coast near the town of Strahan. “The waves that hit that lighthouse there,” he says in a broad Strine accent, “come all the way from Argentina because there's nothing but water between here and there.” Nothing defines geographical isolation more than 7,000 miles of open ocean.


After turning around at the lighthouse, we proceed to head up the Gordon River, which empties into Macquarie Harbour. One of largest rivers in Tasmania, the Gordon River cuts through a vast stretch of uninhabited wilderness located in the heart of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, which itself encompasses 20% of all of Tasmania. Trees grow right down the water which looks like weak tea because of the tannins leaching from the roots of the buttongrass that lines the shore.


Aside from trees, water, and sky, there isn't much to see, and yet these three elements are so all-encompassing that I stand on the upper deck of our catamaran utterly transfixed by the tableau in front of me. The wind is blowing strong, drowning out the sounds of other passengers talking and laughing, and I manage to lose myself in this primal world as the minutes tick by without meaning.

The shrill sound of the boat horn brings me back to the here and now. We're docking at Heritage Landing, the farthest up the river that commercial boat tours are allowed to go. We walk through a pristine cold-climate rain forest with trees older than any of us by hundreds of years, luxuriously draped with moss. We're not allowed to leave the boardwalk because the ecosystem is fragile, but what we see gives us a good idea of what the remaining 99.99% of this endless wilderness must be like.


After an hour we leave Heritage Landing and turn around to head back down the Gordon River. The final stop on our cruise is Sarah Island, by many accounts the most hellish of the British penal colonies in Australia. “Sarah Island is remembered only as a place of degradation, depravity, and woe,” newspaperman John West wrote in 1842. The punishments meted out to the prisoners bore no relation to the offenses committed, all part of the British strategy to "reform" these poor souls.


Precious little remains of those days—just a few ruins and foundations scattered throughout the island, all meticulously labeled. It's hard for me trying to imagine this place as the Tasmanian equivalent of Dante's inferno. It is just too stunning. But maybe it's this aching beauty that made Sarah Island so terrible for the convicts. It's as if nature thumbs its nose at your plight instead of commiserating with you.


Dusk begins to fall as our boat returns to its home base in Strahan. With less than 700 souls, this is a tiny town, but the cluster of buildings along the harbor seems gaudy and frivolous to me after seeing nothing but untamed nature for the past six hours. But I imagine that the permanent residents of Strahan know full well how precarious their perch is, right there at the edge of the world.




Friday, December 3, 2010

Off the Beaten Track: Travel Photography 101

Our guest this week is Gerhard Bock, who lives in Northern California with his wife and two daughters. He makes his living as a professional translator but his passions are photography and gardening. Check out his fine-art photography at The Photo Continuum, and his gardening blog at bambutopia.blogspot.com.


In the 30+ years that I’ve been taking photos, I’ve made all the mistakes that can be made—many more than once. Eventually I came to realize that each mistake is an opportunity to get better. If you feel frustrated with your pictures, don’t beat yourself up. Instead, look at them calmly and try to figure out what exactly you don’t like. Then work on improving that particular area. The following tips should help you get images that you’re happy with, whether you’re a complete novice or have been taking photos for a while.

Pick a subject.

This may sound redundant but a lot of photos don’t have a real focal point. If your viewers don’t know what to look at, their eyes will soon glaze over. Before pressing the shutter button, ask yourself: Why am I taking this picture? What is it that fascinates me in this scene? If you can’t answer these questions, chances are your photos won’t be of interest to others. As Ansel Adams once said, “There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept.”

Luna Park, Sydney, Australia

Don’t center your subject.

Putting the focal point of your photo right in the center results in a symmetrical, balanced image—one that puts people right to sleep. Move your subject off center, even right into a corner. This will create visual tension and grab the viewer’s attention. And remember: This tip applies to both people and inanimate objects.

Amargosa Opera House, Death Valley Junction

Get closer.

Many photos do have an interesting subject but unfortunately it only occupies a small portion of the frame. Taking photos means being in motion. Don’t stand still like a signpost. Get up close with your subject—human or otherwise—or at least zoom in. Know that in many cases walking right up to a subject and using a wide-angle lens often creates a more dynamic composition than standing back and zooming in. In addition, zooming in, or using a telephoto lens, increases the risk of camera shake, even in spite of today’s image-stabilization technologies.

Manzanar National Historic Site


 Change the perspective.

We’re used to seeing the world from eye level. To mix things up, lie down on your belly or climb onto a table or wall. You’ll be surprised by how different everything looks from down low or up high. The best photos show us the world from an unfamiliar perspective.

Bondi Beach, Sydney, Australia

Frame your scene.

In 1970s how-to manuals on landscape photography, there would always be a tree lurking somewhere in the corner to lead the viewer’s eyes into the scene. In spite of the cliché, this technique does have its merits. Anything near the edge of the frame that adds visual interest is a good thing. It could be an old lamp post when taking street photos in Paris or Prague; it could be the very edge of a neighboring building; or it could be a simple sign, as in the photo below.

Dinkelsbühl, Germany
 
Include people.

I’m sure you’ve gone through your old photos and quickly realized that photos without people quickly become boring. I’m not even talking about people you know. What’s a beach photo with nobody in it? Or a nature trail without at least one hiker? People give photos a human dimension. Without that, even the most beautiful scene quickly becomes sterile, and we have a hard time emotionally connecting to the image.


Dinkelsbühl, Germany

Capture the light.

Photography literally means “writing with light”. To get stunning photographs, you have to know how to take advantage of the light. If at all possible, get up early to capture the magic light at dawn. And stay late for a repeat at dusk. I’m not talking just about sunrise and sunset proper; often the most beautiful color happens before sunrise and after sunset. Yes, photographers rarely get to sleep in and often they miss dinner, too.

Devil's Golf Course, Death Valley National Park

Use fill flash.

Unfortunately, when traveling it’s often impossible to wait around for the best light. Frequently you find yourself in a beautiful place in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead, casting harsh shadows. There’s little you can do as far as photographing buildings or natural scenes is concerned. However, you can greatly improve people pictures if you use flash. Yes, use flash even on a bright, sunny day, especially if your subject is positioned against a bright background like the sky. Invariably your camera will underexpose the photo so the person’s face is nothing but a dark blob. To prevent that, force your flash on (i.e. switch from “Auto” to “Manual”), or better yet, use fill flash if your camera has such a setting. The result will be a balanced image where both the subject in the foreground and the background are properly exposed.

The Last Supper by Albert Szukalski, Rhyolite, Nevada

Don’t be daunted by the information in this post. You don’t have to remember it all right away. Just focus on one or two of these areas at a time, and then go out and practice, practice, practice. Remember you don’t have to travel to exotic destinations to take memorable and meaningful photos!


Next week, Gerhard will be back with a travelogue and photos from his trip to Tasmania. We hope you will return to read all about his adventures and see how these photography tips work in the hands of a pro!