Showing posts with label Safari. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Safari. Show all posts

Friday, September 28, 2012

Off The Beaten Track: Chobe, the Greatest River I Know

Yolanda L. Comedy is a world traveler and an independent consultant who works on science and technology policy issues while chipping away at the possibility of a novel writing career. Somewhere along the way, she has learned that she has so much to say that can’t be captured in her technical papers and policy speak. However, she has had a wonderful career with opportunities that include: a Ph.D. from Indiana University in Political Science and Public Policy; an American Association for the Advancement of Science Fellowship; and working at the White House Office of Science and Technology Policy and at IBM, and starting her own consulting business. 

I stretched my feet out, lying on my side with book in hand. So beautiful, so relaxing, and just what I needed after three months leading a group of students working in Botswana in the Kalahari desert. We were with Operation Crossroads Africa, a precursor to the Peace Corps, designed to give students the opportunity to visit African countries while working on development projects. We made bricks to build a new school, helped build latrines and, in turn, caught a glimpse at a life very different from our own. Now I wonder what ever happened to those students in my group?

But at that moment, all I knew was that I had a corner of peace and quiet. Everyone was “off doing their own thing” and I was finally alone. “This is so beautiful,” I thought looking out over the Chobe River, a nature preserve in Botswana. I tried to read my book, but my mind was elsewhere, dizzy with the memories of the few days we had been staying in a camp on the banks of the Chobe. I tried to return to the words on the pages of my book. Success, two more paragraphs read. Then suddenly I jumped to my feet, my heart pounding as the memories of my journey while still in Chobe came rushing back.
Gnus and zebras at Chobe National Park in Botswana
“What the hell am I doing?” I asked myself, not knowing how to react to my stupidity as I backed away from the bank of the river. Botswana’s Chobe River is spectacular. In all my years of travel, all of the places I have seen and experienced, Chobe, Botswana’s first national park, is among the top on my list of favorites. It will always be printed indelibly on my brain. Chobe is the place where I learned never to forget that humans share this planet with other forms of life that are as much a part of Earth as we are. I saw first hand some of the living diversity of our planet and was humbled before it. That’s why it was so amazing that I thought that I could sit and read a book on the banks of the Chobe River when just hours before, I had witnessed crocodiles swimming lazily along its shores. Humbled by the many species I had seen, but not wanting to be dinner for any of them, I decided to enjoy the scenery from a few feet back. I put my book down and thought about my wonderful experiences over the past couple of days.

My group and I arrived in the village of Kasane by bus. We had no hotel reservations, no idea what we were going to do or where we were gong to stay. Somehow it worked out beautifully.  We found a camp that we could afford—a grouping of traditional-style houses, with several latrines and an outside shower. We were as happy as could be. (After all, we had spent the last three months in a makeshift concrete building in the middle of the Kalahari desert where the temperature dropped to freezing at night, scorpions didn’t hesitate to join our campfires, and shooting stars simultaneously thrilled us and scared us to death.) 

Tourists arriving at Chobe River
Upon arrival at our campsite, we met a group of white South African hunters. Their race was very significant because apartheid had not yet ended in South Africa and, since we were a multiracial group, we were not quite comfortable with their friendly overtures. They, on the other hand, seemed thrilled to meet a group from the United States and offered to take us on a non-hunting safari. So many mixed feelings invaded our group, and we went off to have a major discussion about their offer. We had little travel money and going on safari was not on our list of possibilities. Some did not hesitate to admit that they wanted to go, others wanted to protest apartheid by saying “no,” and others could not decide what to do.  After a long discussion and a vote, most decided to go.

I will never forget that safari. Since then, I’ve been on many safaris, but my first cannot be surpassed. We went out early the next morning; the sun had barely risen in the sky. The smells reminded us of the diversity of life all around. We went on safari in jeeps, with the hunters carrying guns, to be used for protection if needed. They treated us to a day of adventure and beauty that surpassed my wildest expectations. For hours and hours, we drove, quiet, waiting for animals as we marveled at the beauty of the land, the peace of being in the middle of the bush, and the anticipation of what we would see. And see we did! Out guides expertly followed tracks, sounds, and movements, revealing to us the elephants, zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, Cape Buffalo, snakes and more, in all of their splendor. It was extraordinary. I quickly learned that people go on safari because there is no feeling like it. Communing with nature feeds one’s soul in ways I do not have words to describe.


After the heat, the dust and the beauty, we went to the Chobe Game Lodge, where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton had once honeymooned. We sat on the veranda and had cool drinks, recent memories crowding our brains. We marveled at our day, the experience of joining such stately and wonderful birds and animals in their own habitats. We were happy that our hosts had never needed to use their guns, and that they had so skillfully guided us into a beautiful world none of us had experienced before. 

That night, I slept, exhausted but happy, only to be awoken by elephants rambling through our camp! The next day, just when I didn’t think life could get any better, our group went on a cruise down the Chobe River at dusk and watched the animals partaking of their evening drinks of water. So different from the day before, when our guides had to work so hard to provide us with a view of animals, this day we saw so many elephants (my favorite), zebra, hippos, crocs and birds, that it was nearly unbelievable. The entire journey will stay indelibly on my brain and in my heart. I had the opportunity to experience Chobe’s majesty, hidden and out in the open. Because of that, I have tried harder to be a better being on this earth that we all share.

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

"Why Not Just Go To A Zoo?"


Jenny Carless is filling in for Supriya this week. Jenny is a nonfiction writer, amateur wildlife photographer, and novelist-in-training who last blogged with us in May.
 
I don’t think my favorite vacation destination—going on safari in East Africa—is particularly unusual. But based on some of the questions I’ve been asked, I’ve learned that others do! Here are a few examples …
 
Why not just go to a zoo?

Really??
Yes, believe it or not, someone did ask me this—with a straight face.

Aren’t you scared …

I get many versions of this question!

… to sleep in a tent by yourself with wild animals all around?

I’ve never heard of anyone being attacked in a tent in the night. (Feel free to set me straight!) Still, this is the question almost everyone asks.

What's there to be scared of?
Photo (c) Jenny Carless

Whether it’s true or not, a guide told me this on my first trip, and I choose to believe him: Lions and other wild animals don’t “get” the concept of “inside.” They can smell you, but if the tent canvas is there and they can’t see you—or an obvious way in—they don’t try. After all, why bother, with all those tasty gazelles, zebras, and wildebeests all around?

… of the spiders and snakes?

Yes, actually, I am. But there’s not much I can do about it—and if I’m going to get any sleep at all, I have to buck up and deal with it.

One of the wonderful things about my favorite camps is that they send someone in to check our tents while we’re having dinner. (I think of this as “spider patrol,” and it is much appreciated!) So, the worst I have to contend with are a few (admittedly, sometimes ginormous) spiders and things like millipedes. I try to get the big spiders out, but if I can’t, as long as they’re not on the tent ceiling hanging over my head, I force myself into “don’t think about it” mode—and I remind myself that it could be worse: I could be dealing with Australian or Hawaiian critters!

…and I don’t get into bed without doing a thorough spider/scorpion check. I learned this lesson the hard way on my first trip!

… to be in Nairobi?

Simply the mention of Kenya’s capital tends to make friends and family nervous. The first few visits, it was vague terrorist warnings. Last year, Somali rebels. (Last October, I had to text my family three nights in a row, after grenade attacks, to confirm that I was fine.)

Still, I quite like Nairobi. It’s loud and colorful and filthy and a tad overwhelming; it has incredibly friendly people and some who give me really nasty looks. But I can say the same for several large European cities that shall remain nameless.

The next-best thing to mother's milk
Photo (c) Jenny Carless

And Nairobi has some wonderful places to visit. On the wildlife side, the DavidSheldrick Wildlife Trust rescues and rehabilitates orphan elephants (typically victims of poaching), and the GiraffeCentre is involved in educating children about wildlife and helping to rebuild the population of endangered Rothschild giraffes.

At the Giraffe Centre, you can learn about and feed giraffes

…to visit Gorilla Forest Camp?

Gorilla Forest Camp, in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, is a lovely spot—but one with a grisly history: Years before my visit, rebel Rwandans attacked guests there. Several friends called me insane, but time had passed, that area was considered safe at the time, so I went.

Silverback, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Photo (c) Jenny Carless

I didn’t want to miss seeing mountain gorillas in their world. Slogging through steep, swampy, you-can’t-get-through-here-without-a-machete rainforest was one of the hardest hikes I’ve ever done (a little embarrassing to admit after Alli’s post on Tuesday!)—and scarier than staying at the camp, in some places—but so worth it! I saw an entire family of gorillas at play and watched a silverback snacking away happily on nettles—a magical experience.

I didn’t have an “up close and personal” experience like you’ll see in this video, but watch it to see an amazing human/gorilla interaction. I can’t be sure, but this video looks like it’s at Gorilla Forest Camp. I guess I was there on the wrong day!

So, these are some of the reasons I go to East Africa on vacation. I suppose unusual is in the eye of the beholder. Do you go on vacations your friends think are scary?

Friday, January 6, 2012

“Welcome to the Food” – and other fun phrases in Kiswahili


Our guest this week is Jenny Carless, a nonfiction writer, amateur wildlife photographer, novelist-in-training, and safari addict. She is currently working on her first novel, which deals with elephant poaching in Kenya.

Thanks to Heidi for inviting me to contribute to Novel Adventurers. I enjoy reading everyone’s posts and am pleased to participate!

I fell for the animals, people, and landscapes of Kenya when I first visited in 2003. Since then, when I’m not in Kenya, I seem to be planning my next trip to Kenya.
 
Leopards are notoriously shy.

And while it’s the giraffes (OK, and other fauna, too) that lure me across 11 time zones and a pair of far-too-long flights, I’m also intrigued by Kenya’s many languages and rich cultures. Kiswahili and English are the official languages in Kenya, but you must add to those nearly 70 tribal languages spoken by the Masai, Kikuyu, Samburu, Borana, Luo, and many other ethnic groups.

As any traveler knows, even if your conversation skills are limited to hello, goodbye, please, and thank-you, making at least some effort is a fantastic way to connect with locals.

I made the most of this on my recent safari, two months ago. Because I was in research mode (gathering information for a novel in progress), that attitude spilled over into my language learning, too. As a result, I had some of the most fun I’ve had with my guides and the camp staff—and I think it was because they really appreciated my faltering efforts to learn their languages.

Good news for endangered African wild dogs: this one is pregnant.

So many languages, so little time…

I’m enchanted by the many ways different cultures express things. For example, bon appétit in Kiswahili is Karibu kwa chakula – literally, “welcome to the food.” I love that!

There are also regional idiosyncrasies in English. My favorite is “bitings,” the Kenyan word for snacks. A Zimbabwean friend says he doesn’t think any other English-speaking countries in Africa use this term—and when he first came to Kenya, he hadn’t a clue what they were talking about.
 
Even when I can only catch a word here or there, I enjoy simply listening to the sounds as others speak. To my ear, Kiswahili is very melodious. Lala salama (“sleep well”) rolls off the tongue so easily. Even “garbage” (takataka) sounds pretty!

On safari, we eat "bitings" while enjoying spectacular sunsets.

Accents add an additional dimension to the enjoyment—and I hear English spoken with many more accents in Kenya than I do in California. Kenyans themselves speak English with a rich, tuneful voice that, in my mind, reflects the musicality of Kiswahili. Beyond that, on this trip alone I spoke with people from Zimbabwe, South Africa, Swaziland, New Zealand, England, Finland, Belgium, and more.

A team effort

In October and November, I visited three different Kicheche camps (Laikipia, Mara Camp, and Mara Naboisho). One of Kicheche’s specialties is finding incredibly friendly and helpful staff—even when it comes to language lessons, as it turns out.

In addition to peppering my guides endlessly with questions about wildlife, I asked them and the camp staff for help with Kiswahili. Soon, it felt like a team endeavor, with everyone enthusiastically teaching me a phrase or two each day. They also seemed tickled when I threw out something new. (How did you sleep? See you tomorrow!)

I'd love to learn to speak giraffe.

I even learned a couple of phrases in Ma from one Masai guide. That night, when I said supa (“hi”) to my night guard, and then ashe oleng (“thanks very much”) when he delivered me safely back to my tent after dinner, I was rewarded with a big grin. And guess what? He was chattier when I saw him the next evening.

My intensified effort to learn Kiswahili upped my enjoyment so much on this trip that I’ve come home inspired to keep it up. In fact, I may look for a tutor. So, if anyone knows a native Kiswahili speaker in the Monterey Bay area who might be interested, please let me know!

Then, once I make inroads with Kiswahili, I’d like to learn to speak giraffe…

All photos (c) Jenny Carless