Showing posts with label American Southwest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label American Southwest. Show all posts

Friday, May 17, 2013

Off The Beaten Track: Mesa Verde



By Jenni Gate

Cliff Palace - one of the largest dwellings in Mesa Verde
Tower in Cliff Palace

These days, Mesa Verde National Park is not too far off the beaten path. It has a rich and mysterious history, a setting high on the mesa cliffs of southwest Colorado with deep canyons and expansive vistas. The Anasazi (ancestral Puebloans) lived on top of the mesas about 2,000 years ago, farming the fertile soils at about 7,000 to 8,000 feet in altitude. The area was most likely settled around 400 AD. By around 1100 AD, resources on the mesa tops were being depleted, and a lengthy drought forced people to the cliffs where water seeped through the sandstone until it hit bedrock, pooling and seeping into springs within caverns. The Anasazi built homes, towers, and kiva structures right in the arched caverns that were cut into the cliff face by erosion. They only lived in these cliff dwellings for about 200 years, and then they disappeared. Modern Puebloan people believe the Anasazi are their ancestors, that the drought drove these ancient people from the mesa and into more fertile parts of the Southwest.
Painting inside Cliff Palace 2-story dwelling


The Anasazi kept dogs and domesticated turkeys. They farmed corn, beans, and squash. The mesa forests provided pinyon and juniper trees.  Various berries were abundant. They traded with other Southwest people for cotton, and they developed unique pottery designs.

Some of the dwellings are decorated with paintings on the walls and hand prints. One of the popular hikes in the park meanders along a boulder=strewn cliff path to a wall of petroglyphs. The petroglyphs throughout the South West only intensify the curiosity about the way people lived, their struggle for survival, and their life in the cliff dwellings. 

30' ladder entry to Balcony House
Through a tunnel & up a cliff face to exit

View from Balcony House











Cougar & Kachina whip petroglyphs


My husband and I went in late April this year, which is a good time to go because temperatures soar into triple digits in the summer, and the altitude takes a toll. Bring plenty of water. The highest point in the park, near the guest lodge, is about 9,000 ft. Most of the sites can be seen from overlooks and drive-to vista points, but if you hike the trails or take the ranger guided tours, be prepared to climb ladders, crawl through tunnels, climb rock faces, clamber over rocks, and be awed by the beauty of this national treasure.

Petroglyph wall







Friday, August 24, 2012

Off the Beaten Track: Architectural Jewels of Chimayó, Taos, and Abiquiú


Our guest this week is Gerhard Bock, a translator, photographer, and avid gardener based in Northern California. He is also an occasional contributor to Novel Adventurers. This new travelogue describes one day of Gerhard’s recent road trip through the American Southwest with his family. It originally appeared on his gardening blog, Bambutopia.


Today was all about visiting historic churches and buildings in northern New Mexico. In the morning we took the High Road toTaos which crosses the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and winds through a number of small Spanish villages.

Our first stop was in Chimayó whose main attraction is the Santuario, a Catholic church often called the “Lourdes of America” because it attracts scores of faithful who believe in its healing properties. Check out this Wikipedia article for the whole (hi)story.

Santuario de Chimayó
Shrine in the square at the base of the Santuario de Chimayó
Wall detail of Santuario de Chimayó
At the top of a mesa is the even smaller village of Truchas. Its church, Nuestra Señora del Rosario, is very modest but beautiful in its lack of ornamentation. Robert Redford’s 1988 movie The Milagro Beanfield War was filmed in Truchas.

View from Truchas
Nuestra Señora del Rosario in Truchas
Las Trampas comes on the High Road. Its church, San José deGracia, was built between 1760 and 1776 and is a prime example of adobe architecture. Unfortunately, the church was closed (as was the one in Truchas) but I enjoyed looking at the exterior details, especially the exquisite door.

San José de Gracias in Las Trampas
Door of San José de Gracia
Adobe wall detail
After another 30 miles we finally reached Ranchos de Taos, home of the most famous church in the southwestern United Stages. The SanFrancisco de Asís Mission Church is breathtaking. It has been photographed and painted by master artists ranging from Ansel Adams and Paul Strand to Georgia O’Keeffe, who lived an hour and a half away in the village of Abiquiú (see further down below in this post).

We parked in the dirt lot right off the main highway so the first thing we saw of the church was its back. As beautiful as the front is, I think the back is my favorite aspect because of the unbroken expanses of adobe and the simple geometric lines.

San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--rear
San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--rear


San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--architectural details
Walking around the side, I finally made it to the front of the church. After checking out the inside (no photography allowed), we had a great lunch at a family-owned restaurant right next to the church. The New Mexican food they served was among the best we’ve had to date on this trip.

San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--front
San Francisco de Asís Mission Church--front
Our next stop was the Taos Plaza in the heart of town. It’s much smaller than the Santa Fe Plaza we saw yesterday, but it was also much less busy.

Taos Plaza
Taos Plaza
Taos Plaza
Ristras (chili pepper wreaths) and kiva ladder on top
of a building in the Taos Plaza
One of the most anticipated stops on this entire trip came next: Taos Pueblo. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is the oldest continuously inhabited place in the entire country. Some of the multi-storied adobe structures date back to the year 1000.

Here are some photographic impressions of Taos Pueblo:
  
Church of San Geronimo
Church of San Geronimo
Multi-storied adobe building
Multi-storied adobe buildings
Wahlea's Taos Pueblo Gallery
Ladder against an adobe wall
Panoramic view of Taos Pueblo
The final stop on today’s itinerary was the village of Abiquiú, about an hour and a half from Taos and less than thirty minutes from Española where we’ve been staying for the last three days. Abiquiú is where American painter Georgia O’Keeffe lived from 1949 until her death at age 98 in 1986. I expected it to have at least some tourism, but the small plaza in front of the beautiful church of Santo Tomás El Apóstol looks much like it probably did 100 years ago. The road and plaza are unpaved, and the houses—some adobe, some more conventional—look forgotten by time. The plaza was quiet and deserted, quite a contrast from Santa Fe and Taos.

Architectural detail
I knew Georgia O’Keeffe’s house adjoined the plaza but I had a hard time finding it; it’s by far the largest property but it’s well hidden by trees and completely surrounded by a thick six-foot adobe wall. The best view I could get was from the entrance, which was chained off. Tours can be arranged through the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum but they require advance reservations and are expensive ($35 per person).

Georgia O'Keeffe House in Abiquiú
On our way back to Española, we saw a double rainbow with really vibrant colors. Within minutes we were in the middle of a summer monsoon squall, complete with lightning and thunder. I loved it.

Double rainbow near Abiquiú