Indiana Jones, Tikal, and Me

By Alli Sinclair

At school, history was a bore. I mean, really, what's so interesting about studying dead people? But then a man with a battered hat, bullwhip, and a lopsided smile swaggered into my life. OK, it was onscreen, but still, Indiana Jones impacted the way I viewed the ancient world and literally, changed my life.

History became exciting. The people who lived in ancient civilizations had invented cool stuff. They made me realize we owe a lot to our ancestors for what we have today. And from the first moment I saw Indy swinging with his bullwhip across a chasm, I decided to go on my own crusade and discover ancient cultures.

One of the first that fascinated me was Tikal, one of the largest archaeological sites of the pre-Columbian Mayan civilization. Located in the lush Petén Basin in Guatemala, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most impressive, mysterious places on earth. Thick jungle surrounds the ruins and howler monkeys chatter overhead, accompanied by the lyrical songs of 410 species of birds.

Bound by rivers, the park containing Tikal provides protection for ocelots, peccaries, toucans, and jaguars, just to name some of the exotic wildlife that live in the shadows of the jungle. So far, only 3,000 sites have been uncovered, and there’s a further 10,000 waiting for archaeologists to unearth. It’s been 50 years since the first dig at Tikal, and given the expanse of the area, it could take many lifetimes to fully discover the history and secrets beneath the soil. The Mayans believed in reincarnation, and I wonder if archaeologists wish it were true, so they could continue with their discoveries.

In its heyday, Tikal was home to 90,000 people and covered close to 75 square miles (120 square kilometers).  Because of its geographical location, the Mayans needed to conserve water, and management of this precious resource was vital for the survival of their city. Surrounded by wetlands, the Mayans devised reservoir systems for water diversion and storage, taking advantage of the seasonal rainfall. Roads were paved with lime-based cement, and flint was readily available, providing the Mayans with a valuable stone to make spear points, arrowheads, and knives.

In 700 B.C., Tikal was a commercial, cultural and religious centre but by the mid-4th century, Tikal had morphed into a city of people who’d adopted brutal methods in warfare under the rule of King Jaguar Paw. It is still not known exactly what killed off the Mayans but the latest report in National Geographic suspects climate may have had a lot to do with their demise. Yet another reason why learning about history is so important – we have the opportunity to change our ways based on what our ancestors did, or didn’t, do.

The most striking features at Tikal are the steep-sided temples rising above the jungle. The plazas have been cleared of trees and vines, and the temples are partially restored. At times, great distances exist between sites, and one can stroll under the dense canopy, take refuge from the sun, and enjoy the rich, earthy scents of the low-lying vegetation. Even at peak tourist season, it’s possible to escape the throngs, step back in time, and imagine what life may have been like.

Translated from Itzá Maya, Tikal means “place of voices”, and it’s easy to understand why. Whispers from the past echo through the deserted corridors and around corners. The skin prickles, and hair stands on end with the feeling of not being entirely alone.

It’s a long, hot climb to the top of the temples but the view is worth every rasping breath. Temples tower above the dense forest, dotting the vista, and the great height of the monuments can cause giddiness. Star Wars buffs will note Temple IV was used for a scene of the Massassi Outpost on the fourth moon of Yavin. Even 1970s Hollywood saw the allure of such a magical place.

Tikal is shrouded in mystery and magic. It begs to be explored and the mind wanders, trying to create theories of how people lived and died. Maybe all the questions will never be answered. But what I do know is Tikal will always be a place I treasure, thanks to an intrepid fictional adventurer named Indiana Jones.

My Top Five Archeological Sites (so far)

By Edith McClintock

I suppose my first encounter with archeology was searching for Native American arrowheads along Tennessee creek banks when I was young. As I got older, I loved books set on archeological digs or around archeological sites. I’ve never had any desire to work on a dig though. Recognizing that Indiana Jones was pure fiction (some people have a hard time with this, I know), the reality of a dig always seemed tedious and hot—particularly in a desert like Egypt.

I prefer my archeological sites excavated and appropriately recreated, with an informative guidebook or signage, maybe even a knowledgeable guide. Stir in a grandiose temple soaring above the jungle canopy, howler monkey moans drifting over misty mountains; maybe some draping liana vines entangling stone temples. Of course ruins don’t really have to be in a jungle, but a spectacular setting and minimal tourist throngs are nearly as important as the site itself.

It’s all about the history you say? True. But you can find that in a book. If I’m going to travel halfway around the world, it’s nice to have some scenic drama with my history. I admit I recently skipped the ruins of Troy in Turkey—just a field with some rubble I was told (don’t get mad, I didn’t go, it’s just what I heard).

And so, with those caveats, below are my top five archeological sites so far (it was meant to be ten but I ran out of time). And yes, I still have much to see, starting with Machu Picchu, which I have no doubt is well worth Alli’s 42 visits! I’ll try my best to go during low season and miss the swarming crowds. You’ll find this is key to many of my favorites.

1. Tikal (Guatemala)

A bit remote, at least when I visited nearly 15 years ago, the Tikal ruins are among the largest and most beautiful ancient Mayan ruins in the Maya forests of Belize, Guatemala, and Mexico. Archeologists, with the help of indentured student labor, have excavated a number of the temples, the tallest of which is 212 feet tall. But plenty remain unexcavated, which is also interesting as it demonstrates the tremendous feat in transforming a mound of dirt and rubble into a soaring temple, not to mention building it the first time around.

Tikal is first because it meets all of my key criteria mentioned above. Plus, it gets added geeky pop culture points as the rebel base in Star Wars. I visited on a daytrip from Belize, but sunset and sunrise are optimal times, so make sure to fit that in when you visit. And you should.

2. Petra (Jordan)

Petra is an ancient Nabataean city carved from “rock as if by magic grown, eternal, silent, beautiful, alone.”* The history is long, the excavations many. So spectacular it doesn’t need jungle, although I did meet several adorable baby goats, so I figure that counts as wildlife. So massive it takes only a short hike to find oneself alone, possibly lost, wandering over mountains, past Roman columns and Byzantine mosaics, through deep and twisting ravines. It gets pop culture points too, as the site of the Holy Grail in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom. And don’t forget to visit nearby Little Petra, which also has beautiful tombs, ravines, and mountains, and was completely empty of tourists, save us, when I visited.

*John William Burgon's poem Petra. Lina wrote a blog about Petra last year.

3. Vardzia (Georgia)

For a true off the beaten track site, look no further than the dramatic cave monastery of Vardzia. Dug into the side of Mount Erusheli between 1184 and 1186 as a military base during the golden age of medieval Georgia, it was accessible only through hidden tunnels at the base of the hill. Due to mysterious circumstances, it soon became a religious site where Queen Tamar lived. (Never heard of Queen Tamar? She’s famous in Georgian history as the ruler of their golden age.) 

Vardzia originally had over six thousand apartments in a thirteen-story complex with an irrigation system that watered terraced farmlands. An earthquake destroyed two-thirds of the city in 1283, exposing the caves and collapsing the irrigation system.

Up close or from the distance it’s impressive, surrounded by windswept mountains, a pretty river snaking through the valley, and rock cut staircases straight out of an Escher print. And I bet you can guess what comes next. Yes, on the day I visited we were completely alone—except for a dog and a monk who lived in one of the caves.

4. Luxor Temple (Egypt)

Normally the Luxor Temple might not have made my list. But when I visited Luxor there were less than a hundred tourists in the entire city, and so we walked through the temple practically alone, just an archeologist sorting columns, a few local guides, and an Imam.

My first view was at sunrise from our hotel terrace across the street. The call to prayer echoed through warm, pink air; swaying palms and a sleepy Nile framed a giant obelisk and matching statues of Ramses II guarding the temple entrance. Wandering through the giant colonnades a few hours later, my first thought was, Ah, I understand—no, not the mysteries of Ancient Egypt, but why they’ve endured, why Egypt is a must visit.

5. The Western and Southern Walls, Old Jerusalem

Yes, the walls are dramatically beautiful in sections, partly because of the backdrop of the Dome of the Rock, the Al-Aqsa Mosque, and Mount of Olives, but also for the layers of history both visible and symbolic—all of it still very much alive. The mosque entrance was closed to visitors, but we did take a tour of the tunnels under the Western wall and walked through the archeological site along the Southern Wall. Empires, religion, superstition, politics, hate, Armageddon, sexism, propaganda, cats, and kids playing basketball. It’s all there and it’s not history when you visit. And yes, I went off-season—rainy and a little cold, but no lines.

Disagree with me about Troy? What are your favorite archeological sites?

For more, visit my author website and/or personal blog, A Wandering Tale. Even better, order a copy of Monkey Love & Murder on Amazon, Barnes & Noble, or the Book Depository (free shipping nearly anywhere in the world).

Indiana Jones, Tikal, and Me

Temple V - Photo by Chris Chafer

At school, history was a bore. I mean, really, what's so interesting about studying dead people? But then a man with a battered hat, bullwhip, and a lopsided smile swaggered into my life. OK, it was onscreen, but still, Indiana Jones impacted the way I viewed the ancient world and literally, changed my life.

History became exciting. The people who lived in ancient civilizations had invented cool stuff. They made me realize we owe a lot to our ancestors for what we have today. And from the first moment I saw Indy swinging with his bullwhip across a chasm, I decided to go on my own crusade and discover ancient cultures.

One of the first that fascinated me was Tikal, one of the largest archaeological sites of the pre-Columbian Mayan civilization. Located in the lush Petén Basin in Guatemala, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most impressive, mysterious places on earth. Thick jungle surrounds the ruins and howler monkeys chatter overhead, accompanied by the lyrical songs of 410 species of birds.

Bound by rivers, the park containing Tikal provides protection for ocelots, peccaries, toucans, and jaguars, just to name some of the exotic wildlife that live in the shadows of the jungle. So far, only 3,000 sites have been uncovered, and there’s a further 10,000 waiting for archaeologists to unearth. It’s been 50 years since the first dig at Tikal, and given the expanse of the area, it could take many lifetimes to fully discover the history and secrets beneath the soil. The Mayans believed in reincarnation, and I wonder if archaeologists wish it were true, so they could continue with their discoveries.

In its heyday, Tikal was home to 90,000 people and covered close to 75 square miles (120 square kilometers).  Because of its geographical location, the Mayans needed to conserve water, and management of this precious resource was vital for the survival of their city. Surrounded by wetlands, the Mayans devised reservoir systems for water diversion and storage, taking advantage of the seasonal rainfall. Roads were paved with lime-based cement, and flint was readily available, providing the Mayans with a valuable stone to make spear points, arrowheads, and knives.

In 700 B.C., Tikal was a commercial, cultural and religious centre but by the mid-4th century, Tikal had morphed into a city of people who’d adopted brutal methods in warfare under the rule of King Jaguar Paw. It is still not known exactly what killed off the Mayans but the latest report in National Geographic suspects climate may have had a lot to do with their demise. Yet another reason why learning about history is so important – we have the opportunity to change our ways based on what our ancestors did, or didn’t, do.

The most striking features at Tikal are the steep-sided temples rising above the jungle. The plazas have been cleared of trees and vines, and the temples are partially restored. At times, great distances exist between sites, and one can stroll under the dense canopy, take refuge from the sun, and enjoy the rich, earthy scents of the low-lying vegetation. Even at peak tourist season, it’s possible to escape the throngs, step back in time, and imagine what life may have been like.

Translated from Itzá Maya, Tikal means “place of voices”, and it’s easy to understand why. Whispers from the past echo through the deserted corridors and around corners. The skin prickles, and hair stands on end with the feeling of not being entirely alone.

It’s a long, hot climb to the top of the temples but the view is worth every rasping breath. Temples tower above the dense forest, dotting the vista, and the great height of the monuments can cause giddiness. Star Wars buffs will note Temple IV was used for a scene of the Massassi Outpost on the fourth moon of Yavin. Even 1970s Hollywood saw the allure of such a magical place.

Tikal is shrouded in mystery and magic. It begs to be explored and the mind wanders, trying to create theories of how people lived and died. Maybe all the questions will never be answered. But what I do know is Tikal will always be a place I treasure, thanks to an intrepid fictional adventurer named Indiana Jones.