Showing posts with label Kenya. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kenya. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Olduvai Gorge: In the Footsteps of the Ancients

Jenny Carless is filling in for Supriya this week. Jenny is a nonfiction writer, amateur wildlife photographer, and novelist-in-training who last blogged with us in April.

There’s a place in Kenya I’d like to visit sometime. Not for the wildlife, and not for the warm and welcoming Kenyans who live there today—but for the people who lived there a very long time ago. 

I don’t expect to find lots of fossils and artifacts. I simply want to be in the place where our ancient ancestors (or related species) once walked, the very place from which humans may have evolved.

The “Cradle of Mankind”

Olduvai Gorge (the Maasai call it Oldupai, for a local plant) is located in Kenya’s Great Rift Valley and has been called the “cradle of mankind.” (However, just as Santa Cruz and Huntington Beach fight over the name “Surf City USA,” it seems that a couple of places use this moniker.)

Whatever you call it, this spot has been the site of some of the most significant archaeological and anthropological finds ever. Over the eons, this part of East Africa was home to Homo habilis (about 1.9 million years ago), Paranthropus boisei (about 1.8 million years ago), and Homo erectus (about 1.2 million years ago). Homo sapiens showed up about 17,000 years ago.

Discoveries at Olduvai Gorge profoundly changed our views about the time scales of human evolution and provided evidence that humans originally evolved in Africa.

The Leakey Family Legacy

In most people’s minds, this archaeological site—and others in East Africa—is synonymous with the famous Leakey family (Louis; his wife, Mary; his son, Richard; Richard’s daughter, Louise). Louis and Mary Leakey are responsible for most of the excavations in Olduvai Gorge. However, Wilhelm Kattwinkel, a German entomologist, actually discovered the site, in 1911.

Not only did the Leakeys find early stone tools that provide evidence that humans evolved in Africa, they also discovered that the tools were transported many miles, suggesting the species’ ability to think and to plan. Many believe that Homo habilis, nicknamed “Handy Man,” was the earliest tool maker.

Homo habilis
It’s apparently still a point of some controversy as to whether these earliest residents hunted or scavenged or survived by a combination of the two. Most believe that they ate berries, tubers and roots. Some of the tools found allowed them to remove meat from dead animals, and others, to get marrow from bones. Archaeologists have found the bones of animals—like ancient wildebeests—near Handy Man’s bones and tools, but we don’t know if Homo habilis killed the animals or just ate the meat opportunistically.  

Handy Man

Mary and Louis Leakey discovered and described the species Homo habilis. The fossils they found in the early 1960s held the record as the earliest known species of the genus Homo until about two years ago. But now, that title is being challenged: A biological anthropologist has proposed that a partial skull found in South Africa belonged to an even earlier species.

Handy Man would be small (about 4 feet 3 inches) compared to most humans today—and had much longer arms, proportionately, than we do. It had about half our cranial capacity.

Paranthropus boisei
Nutcracker Man

Another early species Mary Leakey discovered (Paranthropus boisei), this one in 1959, is called “Nutcracker Man.” (It had big, flat cheek teeth.) The cranium she found is 1.75 million years old.

Richard Leakey later determined that Nutcracker Man was the first species to use stone tools. It had a skull designed for heavy chewing, which also shared some traits with modern gorillas.

In the Footsteps of the Ancients

I’m in awe of what archaeologists and paleontologists do—how they look at small bones, bone fragments and artifacts and paint a vibrant picture of life so long ago. I wonder if, by walking in the footsteps of the ancients, I can somehow see and feel for myself some of the mystery flowing down through the ages. I hope so!

Have you ever been to the site of ancient civilizations or species? If so, how did it feel?

The images of the Homo habilis and Paranthroupus boisei were photographed at Westfӓlisches Museum fϋr Archӓologie, Herne, from scientific reconstructions.

Friday, January 6, 2012

“Welcome to the Food” – and other fun phrases in Kiswahili


Our guest this week is Jenny Carless, a nonfiction writer, amateur wildlife photographer, novelist-in-training, and safari addict. She is currently working on her first novel, which deals with elephant poaching in Kenya.

Thanks to Heidi for inviting me to contribute to Novel Adventurers. I enjoy reading everyone’s posts and am pleased to participate!

I fell for the animals, people, and landscapes of Kenya when I first visited in 2003. Since then, when I’m not in Kenya, I seem to be planning my next trip to Kenya.
 
Leopards are notoriously shy.

And while it’s the giraffes (OK, and other fauna, too) that lure me across 11 time zones and a pair of far-too-long flights, I’m also intrigued by Kenya’s many languages and rich cultures. Kiswahili and English are the official languages in Kenya, but you must add to those nearly 70 tribal languages spoken by the Masai, Kikuyu, Samburu, Borana, Luo, and many other ethnic groups.

As any traveler knows, even if your conversation skills are limited to hello, goodbye, please, and thank-you, making at least some effort is a fantastic way to connect with locals.

I made the most of this on my recent safari, two months ago. Because I was in research mode (gathering information for a novel in progress), that attitude spilled over into my language learning, too. As a result, I had some of the most fun I’ve had with my guides and the camp staff—and I think it was because they really appreciated my faltering efforts to learn their languages.

Good news for endangered African wild dogs: this one is pregnant.

So many languages, so little time…

I’m enchanted by the many ways different cultures express things. For example, bon appétit in Kiswahili is Karibu kwa chakula – literally, “welcome to the food.” I love that!

There are also regional idiosyncrasies in English. My favorite is “bitings,” the Kenyan word for snacks. A Zimbabwean friend says he doesn’t think any other English-speaking countries in Africa use this term—and when he first came to Kenya, he hadn’t a clue what they were talking about.
 
Even when I can only catch a word here or there, I enjoy simply listening to the sounds as others speak. To my ear, Kiswahili is very melodious. Lala salama (“sleep well”) rolls off the tongue so easily. Even “garbage” (takataka) sounds pretty!

On safari, we eat "bitings" while enjoying spectacular sunsets.

Accents add an additional dimension to the enjoyment—and I hear English spoken with many more accents in Kenya than I do in California. Kenyans themselves speak English with a rich, tuneful voice that, in my mind, reflects the musicality of Kiswahili. Beyond that, on this trip alone I spoke with people from Zimbabwe, South Africa, Swaziland, New Zealand, England, Finland, Belgium, and more.

A team effort

In October and November, I visited three different Kicheche camps (Laikipia, Mara Camp, and Mara Naboisho). One of Kicheche’s specialties is finding incredibly friendly and helpful staff—even when it comes to language lessons, as it turns out.

In addition to peppering my guides endlessly with questions about wildlife, I asked them and the camp staff for help with Kiswahili. Soon, it felt like a team endeavor, with everyone enthusiastically teaching me a phrase or two each day. They also seemed tickled when I threw out something new. (How did you sleep? See you tomorrow!)

I'd love to learn to speak giraffe.

I even learned a couple of phrases in Ma from one Masai guide. That night, when I said supa (“hi”) to my night guard, and then ashe oleng (“thanks very much”) when he delivered me safely back to my tent after dinner, I was rewarded with a big grin. And guess what? He was chattier when I saw him the next evening.

My intensified effort to learn Kiswahili upped my enjoyment so much on this trip that I’ve come home inspired to keep it up. In fact, I may look for a tutor. So, if anyone knows a native Kiswahili speaker in the Monterey Bay area who might be interested, please let me know!

Then, once I make inroads with Kiswahili, I’d like to learn to speak giraffe…

All photos (c) Jenny Carless