The Panama Hat

Photo by Earle Martin

By Alli Sinclair

My first trip to Ecuador entailed traversing some lesser-known trails, thanks to three Ecuadorians I’d met who were on their annual holiday. They adopted me as their pet gringa, and I happily played the role, lapping up the attention my personal tour guides bestowed on me. (They probably felt sorry for me traveling alone but I actually enjoy my own company at times!) Between the four of us, we had a lot of laughs and created some unforgettable memories.

During our travels we ventured into the many mercados that Ecuador offers, and the ones that impressed me most were the markets just outside of Cuenca, in the southern part of Ecuador. On Sundays, Gualaceo has an amazing fruit and veggie market; Chordaleg is renowned for a wonderful array of local crafts including jumpers (pullovers), scarves, and Sigsig not only has a strange, modern metallic piece of art in the town’s centuries old plaza, but it is the perfect place to learn about the history of the Panama hat.

Yes, the Panama hat. We’re not in Panama, Dorothy, we’re talking Ecuador.

Legend has it that President Theodore Roosevelt brought the hats to popularity in North America when photos were taken of him wearing one while visiting Panama. But that’s not the only story. As the hats were shipped through the Isthmus canal in Panama before they hit the shores around the world, someone mistakenly thought the hats came from the country famous for its canal. Who knew one person’s misunderstanding would lead to the rest of the world following suit?

Ecuadorians call their hats sombreros de paja toquilla (hats of toquilla straw), but they’re used to tourists referring to them as a Panama hat. Available in a range of colours for both men and women, the Panama offers perfect for protection from the sun and makes a pretty awesome souvenir that will lead to some interesting conversations upon return to your home country.

The fedora is the most common style of Panama hats in North America, but in the U.K., the Optimo is the most popular. Another style, known as the Teardrop, or C-crown, is shaped like a tear when viewed from above and it’s worn with the point of the tear position at the front of the head. This particular hat is very popular with the indigenous women in the region of Cuenca.

Other styles include the Breton, Plantation (Gambler), Snap brim, Pork Pie (think Buster Keaton), Stingy brim, Boater and the Trilby.

As with most crafts, the price boils down to the quality of product. Although there doesn’t appear to be an official grading system, vendors will happily inform you of theirs and after a few hours wandering in and out of shops and stalls, you’ll get a feel as to what is good quality and what isn’t. Most people look for the fineness of the weaving, which can definitely help when choosing a hat of high quality, but the consistency of the weave and minimal gaps, bumps, and holes are what make the difference between a good hat and a fine hat.

Another way people judge the quality of a Panama hat is the whether you can roll it up and pass it through a wedding ring—I kid you not. The first time I saw this done my eyes bulged and mouth fell open. I couldn’t believe what I’d just seen. It can be done but only if the hat is of very, very good quality.  Expect these hats to cost you USD150 or more. Some craftsmen might sell you a USD20 or USD60 hat and tell you it’s possible to roll up your hat, stick it in a box and unroll it again and it won’t lose it’s shape. I’ve seen enough examples where this didn’t ring true. Consider yourself informed…

While the hats in Sigsig are absolutely beautiful, it’s the ones from Montecristi, near the coast of Ecuador, that have the Panama hat enthusiasts raving. Renowned for their flawless craftsmanship and supple weave while remaining strong and in-shape, the Montecristi hats have been around since the 1600s.

Even though the Panama hat is still popular, the art form is dying. In towns like Sigsig and Montecristi, where the master weavers rely on their handiwork to support themselves and their families, the younger generations are pursuing careers in other fields. In its heyday, Montecristi had nearly 2,000 artisans weaving hats, but today there are less than 50, and some Panama hat experts will say it’s less than 20. Regardless of the exact figure, the skill required to weave a beautiful, high-quality Panama hat is in danger of being lost to the world. I don’t know if there’s such an organisation such as Endangered Crafts of the World, but it would be amazing if such a group exists. Hmmm…. I’ve just had an idea. Anyone want to join me?

And for those who are interested in learning a little more about the people behind the hats, here's a mini-documentary that gives some food for thought.

Sampling Local Life on the Street

By Alli Sinclair

I’ve been fortunate enough to travel at both ends of the spectrum throughout South America. I’ve stayed in $2 a night rat holes and hotels that cost more per night than I could earn in a week (luckily, work paid for it!). The thing is, wherever I go, I tend to gravitate to the vendors selling food on the street. Not only is a great way to people watch, it’s the perfect opportunity to literally get a taste of local life.

So for those of you wanting to know more about street food in South America, here’s your guide:

Nothing is sweeter…

Than fresh toffee. Baños de Agua Santa, or Baños as it is affectionately known, is situated in the valley of Tungurahua Province in central Ecuador. Renowned for the hot springs dotted in and around the town, Baños is also famous for the toffee shops where you can watch a toffee expert sling a length of toffee on a nail in the doorframe, stretch it, and repeat the process until the delectable delight is beaten into perfection. Be wary though, if one of the toffee throwing experts asks you to have a try, make sure you tie back your hair and have a fresh change of clothes!

Cooked food that isn’t

When I first heard about raw fish marinated in lime juice, the first thing I thought was “well, that’s a good way to end up driving the porcelain bus”. But when a Peruvian friend talked me into trying cerviche, I was instantly hooked, so much so that I lived on it whenever I travelled the coasts of Chile, Peru, and Ecuador.

For those who don’t like “fishy fish” don’t worry because the citric acid cooks the fish so that strong fish taste disappears. What you’re left with is succulent fish in a sauce of lime juice, red pepper, onion, and cilantro. Depending on which country you’re in, cerviche may look like a soup or a mountain of fish stacked on a plate.

If you’d like to learn more or how to make it yourself, check out my post on the Cerviche Wars here.

Fast food at its finest

Empanadas, the staple of the budget traveller, are a much more interesting and cheaper alternative to fast food from the international burger and chicken chains. These stuffed pastries are available just about everywhere and you can choose between fried or baked, vegetarian or full to the brim with meat, peas, or cheese.

One of my most memorable empanada experiences was in the seaside town of Montañita, Ecuador. The lady down the road from my beach hut cooked the most amazing fried cheese empanadas and she topped it off with a choice of chilli sauce or sugar, depending on your mood. Mmmmm… que rico!

If you would like read about how empanadas can bond people from many nations and you want a recipe,click here.

Melting moments

Hands down, my favourite street food is ice-cream made and sold by an Argentine ma and pa. Sure, the large chains like Freddo in Argentina are up there in comparison to ice-cream around the world, but the real treat is eating these frozen treats that are sold directly by the manufacturer (ie a local family). As with any street food, you need to use your brain and assess hygiene standards, but usually you’ll find ice-cream vendors take great pride in their product and the chances of you getting sick are minimal.

With an array of flavours to choose from, making a decision can be difficult. My suggestion? Go for the dulce de leche. Be warned, though, once you’ve had it, every other flavour will pale in comparison.

And in case you want to know more about how Argentine ice cream has influenced my life, click here.

I could go on about horchata (a warm milky drink made from rice and sesame seeds), churros (the funnel cake of Latin America), tamales (empanada like stuffing but with cornmeal dough and kinda soggy), and platanos fritos (especially platanos maduro, the unforgettable pancake-like dish) but unfortunately I’d run out of room on this post!

With so much street food on offer, Latin America is the perfect place to exercise the taste buds and learn more about the locals. Language is never a barrier as food, like love, can create wonderful bonds. And if you try something and don’t like it, put it down to experience and be happy you’ve got yet another exciting travel tale to tell.

How about you? What’s your favourite street food? What about the worst one you’ve tried?

The Panama Hat

-->

By Alli Sinclair

My first trip to Ecuador entailed traversing some lesser-known trails, thanks to three Ecuadorians I’d met who were on their annual holiday. They adopted me as their pet gringa, and I happily played the role, lapping up the attention my personal tour guides bestowed on me. (They probably felt sorry for me traveling alone but I actually enjoy my own company at times!) Between the four of us, we had a lot of laughs and created some unforgettable memories.

During our travels we ventured into the many mercados that Ecuador offers, and the ones that impressed me most were the markets just outside of Cuenca, in the southern part of Ecuador. On Sundays, Gualaceo has an amazing fruit and veggie market; Chordaleg is renowned for a wonderful array of local crafts including jumpers (pullovers), scarves, and Sigsig not only has a strange, modern metallic piece of art in the town’s centuries old plaza, but it is the perfect place to learn about the history of the Panama hat.

Yes, the Panama hat. We’re not in Panama, Dorothy, we’re talking Ecuador.

Legend has it that President Theodore Roosevelt brought the hats to popularity in North America when photos were taken of him wearing one while visiting Panama. But that’s not the only story. As the hats were shipped through the Isthmus canal in Panama before they hit the shores around the world, someone mistakenly thought the hats came from the country famous for its canal. Who knew one person’s misunderstanding would lead to the rest of the world following suit?

Ecuadorians call their hats sombreros de paja toquilla (hats of toquilla straw), but they’re used to tourists referring to them as a Panama hat. Available in a range of colours for both men and women, the Panama offers perfect for protection from the sun and makes a pretty awesome souvenir that will lead to some interesting conversations upon return to your home country.

The fedora is the most common style of Panama hats in North America, but in the U.K., the Optimo is the most popular. Another style, known as the Teardrop, or C-crown, is shaped like a tear when viewed from above and it’s worn with the point of the tear position at the front of the head. This particular hat is very popular with the indigenous women in the region of Cuenca.

Other styles include the Breton, Plantation (Gambler), Snap brim, Pork Pie (think Buster Keaton), Stingy brim, Boater and the Trilby.

As with most crafts, the price boils down to the quality of product. Although there doesn’t appear to be an official grading system, vendors will happily inform you of theirs and after a few hours wandering in and out of shops and stalls, you’ll get a feel as to what is good quality and what isn’t. Most people look for the fineness of the weaving, which can definitely help when choosing a hat of high quality, but the consistency of the weave and minimal gaps, bumps, and holes are what make the difference between a good hat and a fine hat.

Another way people judge the quality of a Panama hat is the whether you can roll it up and pass it through a wedding ring—I kid you not. The first time I saw this done my eyes bulged and mouth fell open. I couldn’t believe what I’d just seen. It can be done but only if the hat is of very, very good quality.  Expect these hats to cost you USD150 or more. Some craftsmen might sell you a USD20 or USD60 hat and tell you it’s possible to roll up your hat, stick it in a box and unroll it again and it won’t lose it’s shape. I’ve seen enough examples where this didn’t ring true. Consider yourself informed…

While the hats in Sigsig are absolutely beautiful, it’s the ones from Montecristi, near the coast of Ecuador, that have the Panama hat enthusiasts raving. Renowned for their flawless craftsmanship and supple weave while remaining strong and in-shape, the Montecristi hats have been around since the 1600s.

Even though the Panama hat is still popular, the art form is dying. In towns like Sigsig and Montecristi, where the master weavers rely on their handiwork to support themselves and their families, the younger generations are pursuing careers in other fields. In its heyday, Montecristi had nearly 2,000 artisans weaving hats, but today there are less than 50, and some Panama hat experts will say it’s less than 20. Regardless of the exact figure, the skill required to weave a beautiful, high-quality Panama hat is in danger of being lost to the world. I don’t know if there’s such an organisation such as Endangered Crafts of the World, but it would be amazing if such a group exists. Hmmm…. I’ve just had an idea. Anyone want to join me?

And for those who are interested in learning a little more about the people behind the hats, here's a mini-documentary that gives some food for thought.

Otavalo, Ecuador – A Market Lover’s Paradise

Photo by  Adalberto Perez

By the time I reached Ecuador on my first South American trip, I had suffered market overload. After travelling through Bolivia and Peru and having purchased an array of pottery, knits, and paintings, I needed to give myself (and my heavy backpack) a rest. But then I learnt about the Otavalo market.

Located two hours from Quito, a trip to Otavalo is a step back in time. Saturday is market day, and the best day to visit if you want a taste of what market life is like for the Otavaleños. Some Quito locals had told me to arrive on a Friday and to set my alarm for early Saturday morning. The beauty of the markets can be seen when the sun is barely over the horizon, way before the place is overrun with tourists jostling for the best photographs to post on their Facebook page.

The markets have existed since pre-Colombian times, and a short walk across the bridge leads to the animal market that looks like it could be straight out of the pages of National Geographic. Not for the faint of heart, these markets will leave animal liberationists seething and unable to cope with the matter-of-fact treatment of the animals, but for those able to handle such things, it is a chance to discover what life is like for the locals. Bartering, yelling, laughing, and backslapping Otavaleños weave between the clucking chickens and squealing pigs, while the heavy scent of fresh manure hangs over the dusty market.

Photo by PICQ

In stark contrast to the animals is the artisan market, located in and around Poncho Plaza. Andean pipe music mixes with locals speaking Quechua, and a kaleidoscope of colours fills the square and surrounding streets. Woven wall hangings depicting exotic birds and scenery, thick woollen ponchos dyed blue with agave juice, woollen hats, mittens, and socks all entice the passer-by to part with their money.

The one thing that struck me when I strolled the streets of Otavalo, is that even though the locals were dressed in their traditional attire, they didn’t appear to be doing it for the tourists (as I have experienced in other parts of the world, including in other parts of Latin America). The women’s colourful shawls, intricately embroidered shirts, and layers of beaded necklaces are part of their everyday garb. The men, for their part, have long braided hair and wear sandals, ponchos, felt hats, and calf-length white trousers. This lends an authenticity to this market that people from all over the world come to visit.

Otavaleños are renowned for their textile making and are savvy business people. They are now one of the most prosperous indigenous groups in Latin America and today, 80% of Otavaleños are involved in the textile industry and their products are sold around the world, including in Europe and Asia.

Prior to the 1400s, the Otavaleños used the back strap loom to create their textiles. Then the Incas arrived and Otavalo became an important administrative centre for the Incas. The Incas were smart enough to see the strength and uses for the Otavaleño textiles, so they collected these lovely pieces and put them to use throughout the empire. After the Spanish arrived and Ecuador fell under their rule, Rodrigo de Salazar, a Spanish conquistador, set up a weaving workshop on his land and employed hundreds of workers to produce beautiful, durable textiles to be sold and used throughout South America. Despite the sweatshop conditions, the Otavaleños produced beautiful work and adapted their technique with the weaving tools and fibres given to them by the Spanish. This is how they also learnt how to produce their textiles in mass quantities – a skill they employ even today.

In the 1960s, the Otavaleños adapted a weaving technique from Scotland and developed a material known as Otavaleño cashmere. Then, in 1964, the Law of Agrarian Reform granted workers title to own land. This meant Otavaleños could legally weave in their own homes, and from this law, a thriving cottage industry grew and continues to expand.

After a day spent wandering the streets and enjoying the locals, colourful crafts, and eating freshly cooked humitas, fried bananas and lentils, I ambled back to my hostel, arms fully loaded with various textiles I couldn’t resist. Luckily, I’d purchased a woven bag to load my goodies in and send it all back to Australia. With a rich history and beautiful, hand-made products, it’s impossible to not to buy a piece (or five) of Otavaleño history to take home and relive memories of one of the most captivating and historical markets in the world. 

Paradise Found

Blue Footed Boobies mating dance

For years, I’d heard about the wonders of the Galapagos Islands. For years, I promised myself I’d get there. For years, it never happened. Then it did. And then I wondered why it took me so long to visit one of the most amazing places on earth. 

I dare say one of the reasons for my early reluctance had to do with expectations. Many a time I’d heard about the wonder of a place, only to be disappointed when I saw it in person. I couldn’t comprehend that a group of islands like the Galapagos existed -- where flora, fauna and man live in harmony and not a single creature feared man. I needed to see this for myself, so I finally jumped on a plane and flew out from mainland Ecuador, ready for 10 days of exploring the Galapagos Islands.

Situated 972 kilometers (525 nautical miles) off the coast of Ecuador, the Galapagos Islands are an Ecuadorian province, national park, and a biological marine reserve, all rolled into one. The islands have a total of 23,000 residents, and the government strictly controls the human population of the islands. In 1998, the Ecuadorian government issued a law that granted permanent residence to anyone who had lived in the Galapagos for five years or more. But since 2003, the only people granted permanent residencies are those who marry a resident or are born to one. In the future, new inhabitants of the islands will be required to undertake a special Galapagos Resident course.

Fernandina Island

There are strict regulations as to how many tourists can be on an island at any given time, and naturalists and guides must accompany visitors 24/7. The park entrance fee isn’t exactly cheap, but 100% of the monies goes into the protection and research of this spectacular chain of islands. 

The first European discovery of the Galapagos Islands was in 1535, when Fray Tomás de Berlanga drifted off course on his way to Peru to settle a dispute between Francisco Pizarro and his lieutenants. The most famous visitor was Charles Darwin during the voyage of the Beagle in 1835. A geologist at the time, Darwin referred to the islands as “that land of craters.” During his five weeks on the islands, Darwin made numerous important geological discoveries, including how volcanic tuff is formed. And it was at this time, he noted the creatures that roamed, flew, and swam around the islands were completely different from those in other parts of the world. He also noted how many of the species on various Galapagos Islands adapted to their environment, be it volcanic, sandy, or verdant. These annotations formed the basis for Darwin’s work of scientific literature, On the Origin of the Species. Even now, Darwin’s observations and theories cause controversy.

For those who want to do some exploring of their own, the best way is by boat. Excursions run from four days and longer, but I highly recommend 10 days if the budget can handle it. With so much distance to travel between many of the islands, a longer sail offers the opportunity to learn about the diverse flora and fauna of the archipelago. Penguins, blue-footed booby birds, seals lazing on the beach or swimming in the waters with visitors, are all experiences that are hard to forget. 

One of the best memories of my entire life was swimming near Isla

España. I’d only been in the water a few minutes when I felt a whoosh beneath me, and then a cluster of bubbles appeared on the surface. A second later, a moist nose and whiskers emerged, only inches from my face. The young sea lion’s dark eyes beckoned me to join in the game, and we spent a half hour or so diving under the water, swimming close to each other then quickly away. Kind of like a game of cat and mouse. When it was time to go, I felt like I was leaving a good friend behind, but taking a precious memory with me. Since then, it’s been hard to match that experience.

Sailing the Galapagos is not like traveling on a five-star cruise ship. Every day there are activities that involve long hikes up extinct volcanoes, trekking through scrubland to view bird or iguana colonies, or snorkeling through the tropical waters, and admiring the vast array of sea life.

My most favorite inhabitant of the islands is Lonesome George, believed to be the last living member of a special species of tortoise. He’s thought to be 100 years old, and it’s predicted he has at least another 50 years ahead of him. In an effort to preserve his species, scientists have tried mating George, but this giant tortoise hasn’t shown much interest in procreating. George is in his prime baby-making years right now, so scientists have recently introduced two new female tortoises that are a better genetic match to George, so they are hopeful he’ll finally produce offspring. There is a regal air about this lumbering giant, and I hope the world gets a chance to experience more of his kind, or at least similar, in the near future.

Alli and the giant tortoises

Until my visit to this breathtaking archipelago, I’d never stood a couple meters from a bird colony without them flying away in panic. Nor had I walked along a beach and taken a seat near a group of sea lions lazing in the sun. The lack of fear of humans makes these islands unique, and with the tough controls by the Ecuadorian government and local and international authorities, the Galapagos Islands should remain a tranquil and fascinating place to experience. 

Too many times, nature has been spoiled by tourism and human greed. Somehow, the Galapagos Islands have managed to find a balance. With people from all over the world traveling to the Galapagos and witnessing nature living in harmony, I like to think we can take those experiences and incorporate them into our own worlds upon our return home. Maybe I’m naïve, but for as long as there are people in this world educating others about living in harmony with nature, I believe the world has hope. Because without hope, we have nothing.

Feliz Navidad

I spent my first Christmas away from Australia in South America. I had figured it wouldn’t be dissimilar from the Land of the Long Weekend. After all, South America was in the same hemisphere, and experiencing 40 degrees C on Christmas Day wasn’t unheard of at home either. Catholicism was common in Australia, as in South America, so really, how different could things be? You’ve got it—our traditions were poles apart. I was living in Peru at the time and had the pleasure of celebrating with friends from various parts of the globe, including many South American countries. We decided to group together our Christmas traditions and make it one big cultural mash-up. And here’s what I learnt:

Colombia: The nativity scene is made of clay figures, known as pesebres. The Mary and Joseph figurines wear traditional Colombian attire, such as a poncho, fedora hat and shawl. El Dia de las Velitas (Day of the Candles) is held on the seventh of December and that’s when Advent prayers start. On 16^th December is the start of La Novena de Aguinaldos, a prayer that is said over nine successive days up until Christmas Eve. These prayers tell what happened during the nine month pregnancy of Mary and Joseph. This Colombian tradition dates back to the 1700’s and little has changed since the first prayer was said.

Peru: Nativity scenes are called retablos. Historically, priests carried small altars from house to house with a nativity scene similar to the one in Colombia. Nowadays priests use portable boxes instead (I guess their muscles got tired). Dances and plays are put on throughout the festive season and traditional Peruvian food is served during these celebrations. As an act of good will, churches and generous people make choclotadas (cups of hot chocolate) and give gifts to those to the less fortunate.

Venezuela: On December 16, families display their pesebres. (They’re called the same in Colombia.) At dawn, church bells chime and firecrackers explode to wake up all the worshippers on Christmas Eve. On the 5^th of January, children leave out hay and water for the camels of the Magi (the wise men) and in the morning they find their offerings are replaced by gifts. If the children wake up and have a black smudge on their cheek, they believe that Balthazar, King of the Ethiopians, kissed them while they were asleep.

Ecuador: Children write letters to baby Jesus and place their shoes on their windowsill on Christmas Eve. The next morning, the children usually awake to find noise-making toys in their footwear. Firecrackers, brass bands, and dancing in the streets are popular and most families attend Midnight Mass.

Brazil: Christmas is influenced by the Jesuit monks. But, over the years, Brazil has adapted many North American traditions, which means the old traditions are falling by the wayside.

In South America, the commercialism of Christmas is no way near the frantic extent it is in other parts of the world, and to be honest, it was a welcome relief. The focus was on family, friends and celebrating beliefs, which at times, are a combination of modern-day religion and the traditions of their ancestors. Santa and presents is not the be all and end all. For me, I found the true spirit of Christmas in South America.

The mother of my “adopted” family in Peru did a great deal of volunteer work for the children’s hospital and a psychiatric home for children in Lima. On Christmas morning, she invited me to join her in her own Christmas Day tradition—handing out presents to children at the hospital and psychiatric home who either had no family or were so poor their family couldn’t afford gifts. Armed with sweets and books we set off. I had no idea this particular morning would be the one that changed my whole view of Christmas. Previously I had thought it was one commercial rip-off. But in that moment, when I was surrounded by children who just wanted a hug and were happy to see someone show them some love, I finally got what it was all about.

How about you? Through learning about another culture have you changed the way you view a familiar tradition?

The Cerviche Wars

Photo by Manuel González Olaechea y Franco

The warm wind rustled the paper table cloth, and soft sand oozed between my wiggling toes as I waited for the dish that would cause my taste buds to have a fiesta. Gazing at the azure waters of the Pacific Ocean, I couldn’t think of a better place to be -- Mancora, on the far north coast of Peru, is a haven for foodies, especially those with a penchant for devouring plates of cerviche.

Popular in most coastal regions of Central and South America, this seafood dish has been the centre of a dispute for many years. Made from fresh raw fish and marinated in lemon or lime juice, it is spiced with peppers, onion, salt and usually accompanied by sweet potato, lettuce, corn, or avocado (depending on which region you’re in). The juices cook the fish, but beware – only eat cerviche early in the day or else you’re likely to end up with a nasty bout of food poisoning. Unfortunately, I found out first hand why you don’t eat cerviche late afternoon, but it still didn’t put me off one of my favourite dishes.

Many nationalities have laid claim as to who invented cerviche. Central and South Americans and even some Polynesian islands in the South Pacific have all put their hands up as the creators.

Every former Spanish colony has its own version of cerviche. The Spaniards stocked citrus fruit on their ships to prevent scurvy on long voyages, and some historians believe the recipe was brought to Peru by Moorish women from Granada, who accompanied the Spaniards, and the recipe morphed into the cerviche as we know it today.

Those in the Polynesian camp say the Spanish encountered this dish on their voyages through the islands. The Spanish sailors enjoyed it so much, the recipe spread through the its colonies, and each region put their own spin on it.

But perhaps the strongest argument is for Peru and Ecuador. Archaeologists have discovered evidence that documents cerviche was eaten by the Moche civilization in northern Peru almost 2,000 years ago. Some say banana passion fruit was originally used to marinate the fish, and when the Spanish arrived the indigenous people preferred to marinate their fish in limes and lemons.

Depending on who you talk to, you’ll get a different story and reasons why a certain country did, or didn’t, invent cerviche. Many a time, I’ve inadvertently become embroiled in a heated discussion between a Peruvian and Chilean or Ecuadorian as to who created the original cerviche. At times, I felt like I was back in Australia, debating with a New Zealander as to who invented the pavlova, but that is a whole other post and sure-fire way of getting our New Zealand readers offside. (I jest!)

I’ve eaten cerviche in many parts of the world (including an Australian version), but today, I’ll post the Peruvian recipe.

1 ½ pounds of mahimahi, ono, or bluenose bass, diced

½ red onion, slivered

¾ cup lime juice (make sure it is a highly acidic type)

1 habanero chili, seeded, halved, and thinly sliced (optional)

1 tbsp of ají amarillo sauce (available pureed or in jars in most Latin markets)

½ cup cilantro leaves, chopped

1 orange sweet potato, peeled, boiled, cooled, and sliced

1 cob sweet corn, boiled, and sliced into 1-inch pieces

4 butter lettuce leaves

Preparation:

Rinse diced fish and slivered red onion in cold water and dry thoroughly.

In a large glass bowl, combine fish, red onion, lime juice, salt, habanero chili, and ají amarillo (if using). Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Just before serving, stir in the cilantro. Place lettuce leaves on the plate, sweet potato, and corn to the side and spoon the cerviche on top of the lettuce leaves.

Eat and enjoy!

To be honest, I don’t care who invented cerviche. All I know is whenever I hear the word, smell lemons and limes, or eat the dish, I’m instantly transported back to a thatch-roofed hut on a deserted beach in Peru. My stomach rumbles, I can sniff the salty breeze and my mouth waters at the thought of diving into a dish that can cause heated debates between so many nationalities.

What food takes you back to a special time or place?