By
Alli Sinclair
I’ll
admit it, I’m a sucker for pristine lakes with snow-capped peaks. Not only are
they a photographer’s and hiker’s paradise, they bring a sense of peace to this
chaotic world, especially after visiting some of South America’s busiest
cities.
The
first time I visited Lake Titicaca, I traveled from the Bolivian side. I’d journeyed
from La Paz and was looking forward to finding solace from the horns, pollution,
and swarming bodies of a busy city. Being the girly-swat that I am, I’d studied
the history of the lake, pored over countless photos (no Internet back then),
and created visions of this majestic lake in my mind. I’d imagined a stunning
body of water but no matter how fruitful my imagination, I wasn’t prepared for
the reality – Lake Titicaca rivaled some of the most beautiful lakes I’d ever
seen (and that was saying a lot, especially after hiking through the Indian and
Nepalese Himalayas).
Straddling
the border of Bolivia and Peru, Lake Titicaca is the highest commercially
navigable lake in the world and is rich in history, beauty, and politics. The
name Titicaca translates as Puma Rock, a name given by the Incas who believed
the lake looked like a puma chasing a rabbit.
Even
though Bolivia is a land-locked country, the majority of the country’s naval
force is based at Lake Titicaca. The navy employs 2,000 personnel, has a naval
school, and they own 173 vessels that patrol large rivers as well as this gorgeous
lake. Bolivians believe one day they’ll regain the land they lost to Chile during
the War of the Pacific (1879-1884) and this hope is so strong Bolivians
celebrate the Dia del Mar (Day of the
Sea) every year and ask Chile to give back Bolivia’s lost land. Perhaps one
day, they might get a yes.
Copacabana
is a village on the shores of the lake and is close to the Peruvian border.
Sure, it has a beach, but it isn’t quite in the same realm as Rio’s Copacabana
– there are no men or women wearing swimmers that disappear up their bottom, no
tanned athletic bodies, and certainly no surf. But this sleepy town has it’s
own uniqueness, especially when it comes to dining. I’ve never been a fan of
trout but when I tried the fish pulled out from the lake only a couple of hours
earlier, I quickly became a convert.
It’s
worth staying in Copacabana for at least a couple of days to hike the trails
leading to mountaintops that offer unsurpassed views of the lake and Andes, as
well as discovering Inca ruins that can only be accessed by foot. And a must-see
is the Basilica of Our Lady Copacabana, the patron saint of Bolivia. It’s easy
to overdose on beautiful churches in Latin America so if you only intend to
visit a handful, put this one up the top of the list.
Framed
by bright blue skies, the whitewashed walls of the church make a spectacular
entrance into this gorgeous house of God. It is believed the church was built
on the Incan Temple of Fertility of Kotakawana, reinforcing Copacabana as a
sacred place well before the Spanish arrived.
Legend
has it that in 1576 some fishermen were caught in a terrible storm on Lake
Titicaca. They prayed for help and the Virgin Mary appeared, leading them to
safety. To show their gratitude they built a shrine in her honor. Another story
is about Tito Yupanqui, a man who dreamed about the sailors and the appearance
of the Virgin Mary. He was so affected by the dream that he travelled to Potosi
to learn how to sculpt. He hand-carved the Virgin from cactus wood and carried
his creation on his back across the 400 miles from Potosi. The sculpture was
placed in the church and it is said that those who didn’t believe in the
Virgin’s powers soon experienced crop loss. In the 1800s, another image of the
Virgin was created and taken to Brazil’s most famous beach – Copacabana.
If
you happen to be in the neighborhood around February 2-5 (it happens every
year), stay for the celebrations that attract people from all over the world. The
Fiesta
de la Virgen de Candelaria
has Aymara dancers from the region, plenty of music played by traditional
bands, and lots of dancing, drinking, and eating. New vehicles, including
trucks adorned with bling, are blessed with beer out the front of the church.
On the third day of the fiesta 100 bulls are placed in a stone corral and brave
(ie very drunk) revelers jump into the arena and try to avoid being gored.
Luckily,
I had enough sense to avoid the bulls, but being included by the locals and
dancing the days away is an experience I’ll always treasure. It’s been ten
years since my last trip to this beautiful lake and I’m well overdue for
another visit. Perhaps 2013 will be the year of returning to my favorite places
in the world. I guess I’d better buy that lottery ticket…
I dislike the term "bucket list," but I'd have to say that visiting Lake Titicaca is on mine! Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDelete