By Alli
Sinclair
This
week, I’m straying from the continent of my heart to another part of the world
that is very special to me—India. When I first set foot in this wondrous land,
I had no idea the profound effect it would have on me. Even though I faced
numerous challenges with my patience and beliefs, the people of India allowed
me a glimpse into their customs, religion, and love for family.
I had
been traveling for three months by the time I arrived in the “Eternal City” of Varanasi
(also known as Benares, Banaras, or Kashi). Situated in the northern Indian state of
Uttar Pradesh, Varanasi is regarded as a holy city by many religions. At 3,000
years old, Varanasi is India’s oldest city and one of the oldest continuously habitated
cities in the world.
The
first time I visited Varanasi, I arrived by boat (yes, I’ve been more than once
because this truly is an amazing place). For five days, I sailed down the Ganges
from Allahabad using a traditional Indian sailboat. We camped on the
riverbanks, met scores of villagers along the way, and were entertained
endlessly by kids keen to show their latest dance moves.
Arrival
day at Varanasi meant getting up in the dark to ensure we sailed into the city
at dawn. Bleary-eyed, we travelled along calm waters as nervous chatter filled
the night. Just as the black sky turned gray, we rounded a bend and saw
Varanasi. A heavy mist hung above the water but faded quickly as the bright
orange sun rose and shone on the magnificent red-brick buildings blackened by
fires used for pyres. Countless ghats (steps that lead down to the river) lined
the west bank of the Ganges.
According
to Hindu legend, the deity Lord Shiva founded Varanasi and buried his trident under
the city. As one of seven holy sites for Hindus in India, people flock to bathe
in the fast-flowing waters of the Ganges and wash away their impurities. Hindus
believe that if one dies in Varanasi, they will obtain a faster route to heaven
and many make the journey to this beautiful city so they can spend their last
moments in the holy waters of the Ganges.
It is
common to see bodies wrapped in white sheaths and transported through narrow
alleys that lead to one of the two ghats where bodies are cremated. For those
who can’t afford to pay for the wood, bodies are placed in the Ganges and float
along the river until they perish.
But it’s
not all solemn in Varanasi. Sanskrit scholars flock here because of the
important role Varanasi has had in the development of the Indian language,
Hindi. And Tulsi Das, famous for writing the Hindi version of the epic Ramayana, lived in Varanasi for
many years.
With
more than 100 ghats along the river, the sight of thousands of people taking an
early morning dip is fascinating. Along the steps are Brahmin priests offering
blessings (for a price) and beggars who will convince you that giving them money
will bring you good karma. Hindu pilgrims bathe at five ghats on the same day
and, to bring good health and fortune, they need to bathe in the following order of ghats: Asi,
Dasaswamedth, Barnasangam, Panchganga, and Manikarnika.
The
Golden Temple is dedicated to Shiva, Lord of the Universe (also known as
Vishveswara or Vishwanath). In the 1600s, the Moghul ruler Aurangzeb invaded
Varanasi and destroyed the original temple then built a mosque over it. In
1776, a new Golden Temple was built by the Sikhs, and the towers are covered in
three-quarters of a ton of gold plating. Non-Hindus aren’t allowed in the
temple, but it is possible to view the beautiful building from a house across
the street—for a fee, of course. I remember standing at a small window a few
floors above, enjoying the peace and marveling at the beauty of this building. It
truly was a memorable moment.
For
Buddhists, Varanasi is one of four pilgrimage sites and, in the residential
neighborhood (only 10 kilometers away from the Ganges), lies Sarnath. This is
where Buddha preached his first message of enlightenment 25 centuries
ago. The Chaukhandi Stupa stands on the spot where Buddha first met his
disciples when travelling from Bodh Gaya to Sarnath.
The
Jains (adherents of yet another religion born in ancient India) believe Varanasi is the birthplace of Parshvanatha, and is the site of
the Dgambar Jain Temple. Parshva, or Parshvanatha, is one of the earliest Jain
leaders to be accepted as a historical figure. He lived sometime between
877-777 BC and meditated for 84 days straight before attaining Kevala
Jñāna—Absolute Knowledge—which is the highest a Jain soul can reach.
When winding through the narrow streets of Varanasi, it’s not unusual to
hear the Muslim call to prayer five times a day. After the Muslim invasions
from centuries ago, many Muslims remained in Varanasi and made this city their
home. Muslim temples are dotted around Varanasi, and some of the most important
mosques are Alamgiri Mosque, Ganj-e-Shaheedan Mosque and Chaukhamba Mosque. One of Varanasi’s greatest exports are the beautiful textiles made by the
skilled Muslim weavers of Varansi. To possess a Varanasi silk sari is a dream
for many Indian women, especially to wear on their day.
The Varanasi experience that stands out the most for me was when I gathered with the locals one warm evening at
sunset. I’d purchased a clay dish filled with flower petals and a lit candle,
and I slowly made my way with the men and women down the steps of the ghat to
the edge of the Ganges. Gently placing my offering in the sacred waters, I sent
a silent prayer and allowed the love and faith of the people wash over me.
Nearly 20 years on, I still get shivers remembering this moment.
Alli, what a magical post! Thank you so much for sharing those wonderful experiences. I am humbled and enriched.
ReplyDeleteI agree with Imelda. Magical is the word that came to my mind as well. I learned so much from your post, and I love these photos.
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