Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Mi Helado Es Su Helado (My Ice-cream Is Your Ice-cream)

When the plane touched down at Ezeiza International Airport, Buenos Aires, I had a backpack full of climbing gear and a head full of dreams about summiting Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the Americas. I hadn’t expected to land in Argentina for the first time and feel like I was finally returning home.


At the airport, Spanish with an Italian lilt blasted over the speakers and women with legs like spaghetti paraded in short, tight mini-skirts. Dark-haired men that could easily have been models sauntered through the airport, comfortable in their own charm and sex-appeal. By the time I hit Buenos Aires proper I’d decided that this was the place of my heart – and I hadn’t yet tried the ice-cream.


Half the population of Argentina comes from Italian heritage, easily identified by their passion for coffee, cakes and ice-cream. Argentines have a great love for “lunfardo” (slang), as do Australians which was one of the first things I found we had in common. Slang and wine, but that’s a whole other post. It took me three visits to Argentina before I finally took the plunge and moved there.


The first friends I made in Argentina were through bonding over homemade ice-cream. It’s not uncommon to find ma and ma shops on every street corner, a rainbow of frozen flavors just waiting to be devoured. Plastic chairs and tables are set up on sidewalks and locals gather to eat, laugh and gossip. It didn’t take long to find my favorite ice-cream shop, and I set about trying to fit in. Boy, that was a lot harder than I expected.


I thought my love for Argentina would give me an automatic “in.” Here was a single woman who uprooted herself, moved to their country and had fallen in love with the people and culture. But wariness lined their acceptance. When I was asked “Boca or Riverplate?” I thought they were talking about political parties. I had no idea which football (soccer) team you barracked for could have such an influence on how people view you.


Often, I was asked why I would choose Argentina when I could live elsewhere. I never found it difficult to answer. The language, warmth of the Argentine people, astounding scenery and lifestyle all added up to something I couldn’t resist. Now don’t get me wrong, there are a lot of amazing places in the world, but for so many reasons, Argentina captured my heart. But no Argentine could understand why I would want to live in their country, even though their patriotism is amongst the strongest I’ve ever experienced.


Fortunately, my Argentine friends embraced me and my flawed Spanish, inviting me to family functions, including weddings and milestone birthdays. I learnt how to tango (very badly), eat asado (Argentine BBQ) without looking like I’d just had a bath in a tub of fat and I perfected how to swill copious quantities of Mendocino wine without falling over. Life was good and it didn’t take long to adjust to my new country.


In the early days, though, especially when my Spanish was worse than a toddler’s, I felt left out. The gap between languages left me floundering, especially in large gatherings and I felt like an imposter. I desperately wanted to be “one of them” yet my accent gave me away every time. But the harder I tried to learn Argentine ways and their Spanish, the more accepted I became. When people realized I wasn’t just flitting through, they took me more seriously and went out of their way to help me negotiate customs and language challenges.


When the economy in Argentina took a dive in 2001, many Argentine’s couldn’t escape their dire circumstances. And even though it was never mentioned, I know many friends and colleagues were thinking that the gringa could go back to her life outside the financial shambles of Argentina at any time. I wasn’t privileged by any means, but because I came from a non-South American country, people naturally assumed I was rich. But man, I was far from it. Although if you measure richness by experiences and the depth of friendships made in Argentina, I was richer than all the Spanish galleons put together.


But I stuck it out, protesting right alongside the nation. That single action changed how I was viewed forever and finally, I felt I was amongst my people.


And in case you need to know, my answer is Boca.


What have you found in common with people from other cultures? Did that commonality help build friendships?

9 comments:

  1. Great post, Alli. When I first went to Australia I had that "I'm home" feeling. It's probably because I was living in the US at the time and quickly realized that in many ways I had more in common with Aussies than with Americans. Of course, then I went to New Zealand... :) Canadians and Kiwis have so much in common.

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  2. Thanks, Maureen! Yes, Aussies and Canadians do have a lot in common. The "I'm home" feeling is a strange one when it hits. It's a good, confusing feeling, huh?

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  3. Music and dance is what connected me to folks from other cultures. I was in a dance group that traveled to many countries, performing in folk festivals and staying with people in their homes. It didn't matter when we couldn't speak the same language, the music and the movement was a unifying bond that brought us together and created a lasting and joyous feeling of friendship and unity. Something I will treasure for the rest of my life.

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  4. Marianna, what a wonderful experience you must have had! Isn't the connection we can make with people through other ways of communication (eg music and dance) amazing? I bet you have some fantastic stories to tell!

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  5. ¡Afortunado mi español es grande!

    And Boco el juego tiene gusto de niños.

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  6. Hahahaha Dave! I imagine the person who translated this for you is a Riverplate supporter. Hmpf. Boca plays like girls... Either that or you bablefished it! Very machismo of you.

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  7. Bablefish is awesome.

    Or

    Bablefish es impresionante.

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  8. Alli, you've made me want to catch the next flight to Argentina. I need to brush up on my Spanish anyway. Maybe I can come back with a cute Italian accent. :)

    One thing that, surprisingly, I found I have in common with Iranians is a sense of humor. I get their jokes and they get mine. In so many ways Iranians and Americans have a completely different way of thinking. But our humor crosses the cultural divide.

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  9. Heidi, isn't that amazing with the humor? I would never have guess that. Laughter does make the world go around, huh?

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